Monday, January 2, 2012

Depek Christmas Feast

The Monday after Christmas my plan was to have no plan and finally just relax and be lazy.  Wrong!  I got a call at 8:30 that morning from Maryanna asking what I was going to do that day.  Avoiding the questions I just asked, "Why?"  Maryanna went on to explain that they had been invited to Christmas in Uh and that I should come with them.  Knowing that you shouldn't pass up opportunities like this I said, "Sure, when should I come?"  I was only given an hour to get to her house, so I quickly threw on my new local skirt from the Samuels and off I went.  Now at this point I'm imagining that this is a little family Christmas at a relative's house, we'll hang out and eat, and it'll be low key.
When I get to Maryanna's she is throwing together the food we will take.  It's pretty standard that people make "takeouts" for functions, which means you make full meals and put them in the styrofoam takeout containers.  I helped her make 10 complete with a serving of rice, chicken, corn, and a banana in each.  (I was very happy to be able to say I brought the bananas so I could feel like I contributed)  As we're preparing our takeouts I slowly start to get more details on what the day will actually be.  This is the gist of how it unfolded:

Maryanna: "We will drive to Uh and then take a boat."
Me: "Oh, are we going to an island?"
Maryanna: "Yes, the feast is on Depek Island."
Me: "Oh, we're going to a feast?"
Maryanna: "Yes, they're having a feast for my dad."
Me: "Oh, it's for your dad?"
Maryanna: "Yeah, you know he has a high title in his village.  So they are having this feast for him."
In my head: "Hmm, this is a bigger deal than I thought.  Good thing I wore my new skirt."

So we proceed to load up the car and head to Uh where we hangout at someone's house until the boat comes to take us over.
Loading up the boat
Depek Island
So happy to be spending more time with Jay-Jay
Getting close as our guide helps us dodge the coral in the
shallow waters
 As we pull up I'm already so glad that I had left my plans open to whatever may come.  I know this is going to be a great experience.
Feast location
The nahs where all the action is, and I'm already eying the
huge drinking coconuts
At first we just sit outside and try to be inconspicuous.  But who's going to let that happen?  We're the family of the guest of honor!  So within minutes we're called into the nahs where I am expected to take my drink of sakau before taking our spot near the front of the nahs.  
Sakau en Pohnpei
So I close my eyes, take my sip from the sakau coconut, and then I'm given a mammoth drinking coconut.  So wonderful!
My first time to have a stopper, which I found quite clever
Inside the nahs was lots of sakau pounding and the gifts of yam were already hanging.
15 yams
Just starting another stone of sakau
Roots are pounded, time to start squeezing it in the
hibiscus bark
Stripping the bark off the hibiscus branches
Starting to pound another round - no shirts allowed!
At the very head of the nahs sits the man of honor, Pahpa Samuel.  He sits with one other man of high title.  Pahpa Samuel's title is Sowen en Depek.
Sowen in Depek in the white
While several rounds of sakau were pounded other men were busy preparing the meat for the uhmw.  Of course there were 2 pigs, but then I also got my first experience of dog on the uhmw.  Now that is a really special treat.
"Is that what I think it is?"
Yes indeed, that's a dog.
With enough sakau for the time being and meat going on the uhmw, it was time to bring in the food to eat at the feast.  You see will see later that the food cooked on the uhmw are for taking home to eat later.  So in come the pots, trays, and takeouts!
I learned that there must be 4 pots of
food presented first
Then all the trays and takeouts are presented before being
passed out according to title
Takeouts
Ladies prepare the trays for the high titles
Being with the man of honor means you get the crab!!!
Not only did we get our takeouts and crab...

we also got a delicious tray of all local foods!
Jay-Jay still chose to eat ramen with kool-aid... he just
doesn't appreciate how good the local food is.  So sad!
After you eat as much as you possibly can it's also totally acceptable to take extras home for later.  Then it's time to start passing out the many gifts of the feast.  First came ladies with mwaramwars and very useful Christmas gifts.
We got toilet paper and bath soap
Some people got big Christmas presents
I have been adorned with my mwaramwar and slathered
with scented lotion
Up close you can see that my flowers were made with
recycled snack bags.  I love it!
Then comes the passing out of the 3 items you must have to be a man in Pohnpei: pig (and dog in this case), yams, and sakau.
Dog...
Pig
They cut up the portions right there to be passed
out to each title
At this feast I had the privilege of having my title called to receive my portion of the pig: menwai.  I was the only one there, so it works.  Haha!  In fact, I was actually the center of attention several times that day, as the only menwai, and have no idea what was said.  I just laughed along with them.  Sowen en Depek also received a nice portion of pig as well as the prized hind leg of the dog.
I'm so thankful we're not expected to eat this at the feast.
Once everything is passed out to all the titles then the feast is officially over.  It's time to load up all of the gifts you have accumulated throughout the feast.
So long Depek!
We're going home with quite a haul: a large
portion of pig, huge yam, and a whole
sakau tree.  Pahpa Samuel is a true
Pohnpeian man.
I had such a great time!  I was so thankful that they invited me to be part of their family celebration.   I learned so much!  And I even got to enjoy the benefits of it the next day as I conquered another scrumptious crab.
Crab AND breadfuit...
and don't forget the mangoes and coconut.  Now this is
my ideal island meal!
And to give you an even better look at the events of the day, here are a few clips for you entertainment:

Christmas in Pohnpei

My mom and dad left on the 23rd to make it back home just in time for Christmas with the rest of the family.  That meant my first Christmas not walking down the stairs with Zach to find what Santa brought or eating Mexican food at Grandma and Papa's.  So what was Christmas in Pohnpei like?  Different.  Not better, not worse, just different.  Like I've said before I feel extremely blessed with great people who take me in like family.
Starting Friday night I was invited to do some caroling at the Australian Navy compound.  Apparently caroling is really big in Australia, so a nice group of us gathered together on the lawn and sang away in the light of candles and tiki torches.  Afterwards I drove through town with Bob and Carol to look at Christmas lights. 
Definitely the best!  It's in the old bell tower, which makes
it look even better.
 Then Saturday I was invited to Tanya's for more caroling, snacks, and hanging out with other volunteer teachers on the island.   It was fun to see the reactions of Pohnpeian neighbors as we sang our carols because caroling is definitely a menwai thing.  They seemed to really enjoy it though.
Christmas day came on Sunday, so I started the day off with church.  The youth put on a really  nice performance to remind us of what Christmas is really all about.  The theme was: This Christmas I'll Give God Me!  They did a really nice job.  The little ones dressed up as Christmas presents were adorable! 
 
 Here's some clips of the performance:


All the ladies also wore their new Christmas dresses.

After church I headed over to spend the rest of the day with my Pohnpeian family, the Samuels.  It was the first day the weather turned around and we had a beautiful sunny day.  Mariana got a good fire going and I hung out with her and observed as she made BBQ Pohnpeian style.  I learned it takes a lot of patience to let the coconut shells burn down and get really nice and hot.  I also got the local marinade because the BBQ chicken is always so delicious here. 
The coconut shells are about burned down
Chicken & ribs marinating
The coconut shells are burned down to really hot embers,
so you throw on the meat!
Meanwhile Pahpa Samuels continued his normal routine of taking care of the pigs.
Jay-Jay joined us somewhere in the middle of it all to try his hand at the fire.  He learns a lot from mom.
Jay-Jay and I really got to bond that day, which made me so happy.  He's always SOOOO painfully shy around me.  But I got him to play Uno with me (he beat me over and over again) and then I got him to bake a cake with me.  We had so much fun!  
Since he did the mixing he also got to lick the bowl! :)
Great job!
By late afternoon our Christmas meal was ready.  We had BBQ chicken and ribs, rice, and potato salad followed by cake and ice cream.  I felt like I was eating a Texan Christmas meal.  Haha!  But it was delicious as it always is when Maryanna is cooking.
After we had enjoyed our meal together we headed up stairs to see what Santa had left under the tree.  I actually got the whole family together at once, which is such a rarity.  There's always someone missing, gone to the store, or working the store.  But not this night.  We were all together!
Spreading the Aggie spirit so she will no
longer wear her burnt orange t.u. shirt
Angry birds are in Pohnpei too!
Everyone needs to enjoy Elf!

Despite the expression on his face he really
was excited to get some new shorts :D
The Samuels...
plus me!
I really love this family!  Even though I missed being with my family by blood as usual, I couldn't have asked for better families to celebrate the birth of our Jesus with!